And my shoes are still the Cuban sand.
First my dreams, and infectious disease called ' Cuba ', year of communication with the same ' kubanutymi ', as I. Year in which terabytes of scanned photos and movies, listen to gigabytes of music. First, where each step is conducted only on the back of ' little green lizard ', every day, step by step.
Si no me encuentras enseguida,.
no te desanimes,.
si no estoy en aquel sitio,.
buscame en otro.
Te espero en algun lugar.
Estoy esperandote.
Walt Whitman.
P. S. Go to warn: a lot! . So neat. In the dust on the sensor sorry, not going to clean now, but it is for six months. :).
Instead of a Preface.
' How can it be that I feel a nostalgia for the places where have never been? '.
What do you hear saying the word ... The island and the island - tale dream. We've been there:).
Catching up with the dawn or the first day in Havana (9800 km from Russia).
... And there are days that can accommodate an entire life ...
Well, that was over my expectation, our fees. In the way! . Ahead of the longest day in my life:).
... Mr. José Martí. Havana after 13 hours and 25 minutes ...
Look into inky night outside the window (or is she looking at me?), As small children, her hands resting on the glass, behind which an adult can not see anything. I fall asleep and wake up. Flying to the Moon and the Stars in the darkness, and below the soft clouds barely cover the power of the ocean. Turbulence Atlantic, the Bermuda Triangle ( flying over it, I suddenly began to ring off (! ) Phone. I'm scared notably:) In the end, it turned out that this is just a daily alarm clock with the title ... Oh no:)).
Well, that's Dawn!.
Señoras y señores! .
Boeing 767-300 is easy to run on the runway. itching:).
We leave in a ... A lump in the throat. ...
We pass the passport control.
- ¡Hola, Eugenia! .
- Gracias:).
Flying in a taxi, windswept, populated home to Conchita.
and immediately go for a walk with Any and Saul.
Oh, Havana! . Gentle breeze just ruffled his hair and stroked her shoulders. Sun looks into his eyes, and did not want to hurry! .
Everywhere trees, just a circle (for a very large Cuban Christmas holiday)! .
Try to drink Guarabana. It is a blend of orange juice, rum, honey and cane juice. awesome:).
It seems that someone has turned the knob joke saturation, the music poured through the streets of the city, and smells just take down the roof! .
Cool street:).
Cuba - it is freedom! .
Havana, Day 2.
This day gave us the dawn in the Malecon ( a truly fabulous!).
and the first in my life swimming in the ocean. It is beautiful! .
Gentle waves lapped up my autograph, all of the sand: ... ...
Also Vetrana not missed an opportunity to get wet under the rain a rain, leaving unfinished at the time in Florida Daiquiri:).
By the evening of the ocean no longer seemed so hospitable, and the waves covered with wanting to walk on the Malecon:) fierce creature! .
Tomorrow we go to Cienfuegos.
Goodbye, Havana! . We return to the same ...
...
Ernest Hemingway.
Cienfuegos, 3 days (256 kilometers ).
We breathe again raznotsvetem herbs.
Under the clear eye of a gold star.
' God bless us all. Not only those rights.
Keep out of darkness, pain and misery '.
Five hours in the freezer under the name of the bus ...
The language barrier has risen sharply (if you like Havana to Moscow as the capital, the Cienfuegos - this is a quiet provincial town ). Well, we shall understand:).
Living by Rita ( at our disposal a second floor with separate entrance, a balcony with two rocking chairs, living room and bedroom.
The houses do not have glasses on the windows - they are replaced by a lattice -type blinds. Feels like the 19th century. Outside the window, always said, clop clop - clop - (the most common transportation in the city - horse carts ) and the crackle of crickets.
Windows wide open, and life too! . Here's houses, each of them has its own special world in which outsiders can easily look:).
Everywhere constant rocking chair at the entrance! .
Try Mahlangu (this is something like sweet potatoes ), and papaya juice for breakfast:).
Oddly enough not to present himself at the theater or on the set of an old movie. Vehicles, people, men on horseback and wearing hats, music, castles - it seems that all this can be a real. But it is true! .
God knows what attracted me to this unpopular tourist town, but in any case, the sunset on the roof of the Palace under the cha-cha -cha and the Mojito was worth a lot:).
Trinidad, Day 4 (90 kilometers ).
A little to the east of the island - and we in Trinidad! .
...
This red country, as our twenty years ago.
These cars are here, we have forgotten about these,.
Trucks and Buick. ...
City -monument by UNESCO, the city of tiled roofs, stone pavements, salsa, kites, drink ...
Casa is also fun! . Continued terrace with rocking chairs, and a third floor with a lookout (roof, if the simple:)). Great!.
Night city also took us to the Plaza Mayor, where she sang some Cuban team. Pretty fun to sing, sitting at the table, ...
Dog came up to me with sad eyes, of course, received a large portion of affection, my muchacho:) remained there, went to guard the. Called him Incognito ( with the accent on the second i), t. to. not introduced. Strangely, the Cuban dog cold night in December. :) And we hot salsa night on deserted streets of Trinidad - this is my:) Hija de la Luna!.
Trinidad, Day 5.
In the morning woke up with the lark, and had breakfast with pineapple guava, moved into the market. On the way, I bought a rattle, maracas. In addition grandmother gave beads made of beans and other legumes, and seeds of some. funny:).
The market woman led us to his home, to where we watched the whole range ( bought the cloth at the request of the chief, and chegevarki for friends). Had the opportunity to contemplate how to live the true Cubans, and a little chat:).
And now for a meeting with the Caribbean Sea! . At the touch of a warm and tender:).
Crabs here are right on the beach walking around, eating each other. A view of the innocent:).
And we were right on the white sand, because of what looked like flour fellows:).
Hardly a night forced to leave, even though much has already burned!.
Set met on the ruins, where it was collected for the residents of Trinidad, and of town guests. Aaaabaldet! .
Today my mother Nerys birthday - 87 years! .
Well, tomorrow morning we Camagüey!.
Camaguey, day 6 (260 kilometers ).
The morning began with lobster malnutrition yesterday ( tasty, but somehow they have more nehochetsya. Especially remembering how this is the lobster with its tentacles sitting at the bottom of the raft, on which hung me:)) and sunrise on the roof of our Casa. They were there, said goodbye and kissed with the Neris. Again, in the way!.
Stops along the way.
At this time we are going deep into the island, in its central part, the province of Camaguey. The city has often been attacked by pirates, so was moved to the coast in the center of the island. The streets are on a ... So guide us, too, of course! .
Kase have settled on Xiomara y Rodolfo. Rodolfo 20 years ago, he studied at Monino (Moscow Region ) in the Academy. Gagarin, a Russian knows:).
Walked around the city, but everywhere hang warnings about the harmful mosquitoes (= muerte), and come across a dead rat. scary:).
Bought in local money for ice-cream ( at our cost 4 rubles, even a little expensive for Cubans ). Ah, poor Cuba. But we seem to have remained alive:).
Well, that evening, and we once again the path and into the night! .
Santiago de Cuba, 7 days (317 kilometers ).
Night at shaking the freezer - it's cruel, though:) We were told that the bus is cold and took along a warm sweater and jacket, but never thought it could be colder than it is now in the street. Russia. :) So put on everything that was not in the luggage. The spectacle of a wretched, but a fun:) I'm in warm striped socks and sandals, jeans and sweatshirts Eugene (m. to. it with a hood. The hood on his head, of course), fall jacket and a towel on your face (so that air conditioner in the face from blowing the nose freezes ), and Zhenek in my warm socks, my own jacket (T. to. his jacket with a hood, and he gave me a hoodie ) and deflated air bag will not say where:) huddled together for two seats. Also, go outside to warm up, primerzshie to each other:) In the street the night was 23, a bus is about 0 degrees. Hello, Cuba!.
At 4:00 am the situation we perceive as true Cubans: rolling with laughter on the bus:) Although the Cubans themselves were somehow not cold! .
However, there were ... Then you can sleep at least, covered jacket. Somehow...:).
In Santiago drove in the morning in thick fog. In this part of Cuba for more than a dark-skinned people and old cars:).
Move into Kasu to Jose Luis. He also speaks some in Russian, which is very happy ( studying in Nizhny Novgorod, formerly). Houses collapse, of course: a lot of people are constantly crying wee little... Well, we do not forever after (2 days and 1 night).
In Santiago, I felt the only girl (although almost certainly the only white ). I hope that does not reveal the cause of any accidents:) So I was sure that black people are very flexible, but that the change of guard of honor will be able to deploy their heads 270 degrees! .
Cubans in general are often virtually deify women. Although women have other. One can not help comparing them with our ... Cuban also go slowly, slowly shaking his hips, as if always on the podium:).
But there are other Cubans trying to work in business. Walking through the city, met amigo, who spent us a tour of the city, and then on the white ...
Castilio del Morro is beautiful! .
Then he dropped in to the Moncada Barracks, where 26 July 1953 a group of people led by Fidel Castro, using the carnival in the city, attacked Batista.
Furthermore, it was a cemetery and mausoleum popular people, José Martí.
I do not like such places, but a grave man who invented my favorite Buenovistovsky ...
Santiago, a very lively city! . Lazarus ( though it is a holiday home ). Dance of the tribe, ...
Bought at the local market large pineapple for 20 of our rubles ( 10 rubles a small cost ) and a bunch of bananas for 5 rubles (local pesos are almost equal to our ruble ). It turned out they needed to bananas or fried or boiled. :) But cooked pineapple was delicious!.
' Chunga- Changa blue sky,.
Chunga- Changa summer all year round.
Chunga- Changa fun live.
Chang Chung - sing a song!.
Miracle -island, wonderful island!.
To live in it quick and easy!.
To live in it quick and easy!.
Chunga- changa!.
Our happiness is constantly.
Rui coconuts, eat bananas,.
Rui coconuts, eat bananas,.
Chunga- Changa '.
:))).
Santiago de Cuba, Day 8.
After visiting the Museum of Roma and cigar factory ( played in the ... Local shows in one direction and then in the other. As a result, a Cuban took us by the hand and brought herself to the right place:)).
decided to take off in the sea! . Antithesis Ankona in Trinidad: the black sand and the waves, but what!.
Not without razvodok (and then we kind of relaxed and already:) ), but considered in his mind I know how much faster than it may seem (after all, graduated from high school in the best matklass city:)), and the Spanish language, though .
In the broken-down jalopy of 50 years ago for 10 minutes before departure of the bus arrived at the station! .
They traveled by night, I lay and looked at the sky! .
Without the five minutes of a new day stop in Holguin. Two brothers, acrobat, put us on your curiosity, and we went to look at at least one night free Kasu in this crowded city of tourists.
Holguin, 9 days (135 kilometers ).
After much wandering, almost losing hope, have found one free! . Fell immediately to sleep and woke up only with the lark.
Walking through the city was virtually impossible because of the scorching sun, so we ran back into the house (yes, in the shadow and air conditioners:)), where he met a funny cat, the name of which translates into Russian as Chernysh. His eyes and ... a cat!.
Holguin is not like Santiago. It is more modern, and did not occur to us all dancing on the streets, and a pair of playing the drums tumbadora on his doorstep. But here, too cool! . Priceless!.
You can enjoy too:).
Children's Park in the city of Holguin.
In the evening back on the road is the longest in the eight -hour drive to the bus. We are waiting for Santa Clara and Che:).
Santa Clara, 10 days (464 kilometers ).
However...:) As far as! . to. Though the bus was caught with hard seats, but almost empty ( it was possible to go for two seats and stretch my legs across the aisle to the third ) and the air conditioning blowing at less than full power ( in a sweater and jacket fall was just right:)).
As one good girl: ... ...
Almost slept the whole night and woke up only when the sun began to rise above the Santa Clara. But the city was still sleeping on the streets, it was worth a little away from the station, was not a soul. Only a rooster cries broke the peace of the newborn in the morning sun.
Memorial Che strong, of course! .
Hasta la Victoria Siempre ( Until Victory! Always!).
In the evening went to the central square, where salsa ...
...
They dance the way I would like to dance with you ...
Well, we are again in the morning to go! .
Again and again he walked out the door,.
Zatepliv your smile dawn.
Whisper a prayer, the prisoners of roads,.
' God bless us all that good Elberet '.
Varadero, day 11 ( approximately. 180 km of road ).
This warm and cozy, nice and polite. But it does not Cuba! . A little sorry for those people who limit themselves to a hotel. And the tour is not at all.
Cuba is close, but it is much deeper!.
After Havana - it is also not Cuba, or rather, not only Havana - Cuba is. Also, as soon as Moscow - Russia is not all!.
But here, too, has its own charm:) softest sand, the most ...
But there is not anything that we have experienced over the past 10 days! .
Although the waves of the ocean, we sat for hours - they are inimitable!.
Varadero, day 12 (35 km around the island ).
In the morning took the bikes and go ride around the island! .
What is WIND! .
There is a desire in the next time you go to Cuba on a motorcycle. And even better on the bike (including occasional refueling and not having their own moto on the island ). Who's with us? .
That I do not ...
Ride in the kayaks ( a small boat, everyone on the oar. And further: ...
Rest of the day spent at the beach, because again tomorrow to go!.
Again, dear heart of Havana! .
Havana, 13 day (140 kilometers ).
The sun came out to escort us. But was the rain, wet dog Fluffy, the raging ocean, wave, waves, wind and waves...!.
Bathed, and so it was a pity to get out. But the memory of the ...
... ... But we are back in Havana!.
This is all familiar, welcomed us as their:) We decided to close some gaps in the tourist route! .
Then he leaned in «La Bodegita del Medio» Mojito drink at the bar in your favorite E. Hemingway. Nothing, not a fountain ( very strong ), unlike in Florida Daiquiri ( the most delicious in all of Cuba ). The whole bar used up different ... Russian signature is small, and mostly ... Hmm.
The sun is setting, then we must go to the fortress of El Morro ( I wrote about the version of this fortress in Santiago). At 9:00 pm there shooting a gun ( the ceremony is called Canonazo de las nueva), which means the beginning of gay Havana Nights ( also previously served as a signal of a shot to close the city gates, and stretching the chain across the entrance to the bay ). Very pleased to meet our children, the Navy (who watches the news, he knows about them on the Cuban soil:))!.
Well, that was our best day on the lovely rasposledny Heart Island. What will bring it to us?.
Havana, 14 days.
We decided in the morning to go to the market and left the camera at home. As always in vain! . Cubans watch, transfixed on the balconies of their houses, tourists stop at the waterfront, taking pictures:).
Riding on a red bus Havana tour, went to museums, trying to catch the sunset with some height. In the evening a long time looking into the dark vastness of the ocean.
On the morning after the road again! .
How many remained here without our touching. To feel the warm wind in her hair, bringing a dizzying smells, soft ocean spray on your face and the delicate skin of children after sea salt, and the waves Wrathful, boundless, gray, clear, vivid, pulsating ocean.
To our spicy gay travel mingled with salty hint of tears... so little! . Already breath?.
Instead of an epilogue.
I do not know who mastered my brief presentation, but wanted to bring something.
Every day more and more carries us from a two-week trip ... No one sings and dances, just hearing the rhythms of the cha-cha -cha or salsa, and the music now sounds only through headphones.
I guess I'm always chasing rainbows, but this time I think I managed to catch it! .
Author:. vetrana.
Discuss.
No comments:
Post a Comment